Hokkaido – ASAHIDAKE –

ASAHIDAKE

ASASHIDAKE

My guide, who also happened to be a model, for the day was Michiko Aoki. She worked in the area as a mountain guide and the minute I arrived she asked me if I really wanted to climb that day despite the difficult conditions. She told me that the mountain was completely blanketed in white so I wouldn’t be able to see the view I was looking forward to and the snow conditions weren’t the greatest either.

Michiko went on to explain that because the best powder snow is so light, it gets blown around the place when exposed to strong winds. Furthermore, the strong winds then cause the fine particles of snow to stick together creating dense conditions which make the snow feel heavy for skiers and snowboarders.

I came to a sad realization after hearing this for the first time but, since I’d driven all the way there I decided to climb the mountain anyway.

I barely saw a single Japanese person when I rode on the ropeway which could seat up to 101 people. Most of the visitors appeared to be from Australia, New Zealand and Europe. Upon arrival at the ropeway stop, there was practically no visibility in the direction of the summit. It was also extremely cold at minus 21 degrees Celsius. Though there were a small number of people hiking towards the peak, we decided against it.

According to Michiko, there were plenty of areas to enjoy the powder snow which did not require a hike so I headed straight to the places she recommended to me. Though the winds were rather strong and the courses rather difficult, skiing through the fluffy powder snow felt fantastic. The snow had apparently gotten dense and heavy but, it didn’t bother me at all.

I told Michiko my thoughts on the snow and she laughed suggesting that perhaps she had been spoiled by too much good snow. We spent the day riding up both ropeways and finished off our runs.

If you were to ask me if I had a satisfying ski experience, then I wouldn’t be able to truthfully say that I did. It was numbingly cold, the wind was fierce and I wasn’t able to hike all the way to the peak so I could do was look forward to my next trip there. However, I was able to get a true feel for the potential of Mt. Asahidake. I told Michiko that I’d see her again someday and left the slopes.

Hokkaido – TOMAMU –

TOMAMU

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After a hearty breakfast at the Furano Prince Hotel, I said my goodbyes to Scott and reluctantly left Furano. My next destination was Tomamu. Tomamu is an independent ski resort operated by Hoshino Resorts, a renowned resort company in Japan. It is an enormous resort spanning 1000 hectares within beautiful natural surrounds housing; a hotel; up to 20 seasonal restaurants; The Church of Water – one of the three churches designed by renowned architect, Tadao Ando; Japan’s largest indoor wave pool – Mina-Mina Beach; and an outdoor hot spring – Kirin-no Yu, amongst its myriad of facilities.

Tomamu can be reached by taking a simple route south, however, it is a fair distance away and took me over 2 hours by car. I’d spent all morning driving so I wanted to set off for the ski fields in the most efficient way possible when I reached Tomamu. Norio Kamibayashi, PR representative for the Hoshino Resorts ski areas, must have read my mind as he came to greet me on his snowboard when I reached the resort.

During my conversation with Norio, I learnt that although Tomamu may have less chairlifts than Furano, it is certainly not inferior in terms of scale with its huge ski slopes. I was extremely happy to hear that the off-piste areas of the ski slopes aimed at advanced skiers had been officially opened. Courses outside of the control of the ski resort had no limits bound on them as long as you registered at the “Powder Area Registration Desk” beforehand. No fees apply either, which is an extra little bonus. Not many ski resorts provide this kind
of service. So, after I’d had a general run of the ski slope, I spent the rest of my time looking for untouched powder areas.

Since I’d started my day of skiing in the afternoon, many powder areas had already been skied on by other people, but there was still so much left over. I had my fair share of brilliant powder snow runs that day. Even my guide, Norio, was in high spirits from being able to ski all he wanted that day. I spent the whole day skiing until the chairlifts stopped operating.

As per my experience, there were plenty of courses to satisfy the needs of an advanced skier but at the same time, Tomamu has various different activities and facilities to keep even least enthusiastic skier occupied. This is something you could only expect from an independently run resort like this. As you alight from the gondola, you will arrive at the “Unkai Terrace” or “Sea of Clouds Terrace” and, as the name suggests, you will be treated to a spectacular sea of clouds. Many tourists flock there for the view rather than the ski experience. The Unkai Terrace is one of very few places on a snowy mountain top where you can experience such a view. Many tourists from Asian countries come just to stay in the mountain resort with no intention of skiing.

According to Norio, a large portion of visitors don’t ski at all. I couldn’t imagine going to a ski resort with such magnificent powder snow and not skiing but, that only goes to show how excellent of a resort Tomamu is.

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There are two hotels located within the resort – The Tower and RISONARE Tomamu. The Tower stands at 121 metres tall with 36 floors housing a total of 535 guest rooms which can accommodate up to 5 people. There is WiFi throughout the building as well as a coffee lounge – Yukkuyukku, and other facilities to keep you busy.

RISONARE Tomamu offers a more luxurious experience for those so inclined. It stands at 112.5 metres tall with 32 floors housing a total of 200 rooms. This means that there are only 4 rooms on each floor, extravagant to say the least. Fitted in each of the 100 metre square all-suite rooms of this gorgeous hotel is a jacuzzi with a view and a sauna. I happened to stay in one of these rooms on my trip and it truly was an incredibly luxurious experience.

At night, you can treat yourself to a buffet filled with delicious foods made with Hokkaido-sourced ingredients at the forest restaurant surrounded by brilliant greenery, “Nininupuri”. For breakfast, you can stop by “Platinum” on the 32nd floor of RISONARE Tomamu and enjoy the wonderful views as you wish yourself a good morning.

While there are plenty of other things to do outside of the hotel, such as a visit to the wave pool, I believe that the “Ice Village” deserves a special mention. This is one of very few places where you can visit a bar made completely out of ice amongst other icy structures. Tomamu is the perfect place to go if you’re looking for a lazy holiday at a resort. I sat in the jacuzzi of my luxurious hotel room as I reflected on my trip thus far. The last day of my stay in a ski area had finally arrived. I have a lovely breakfast at Hoshino Resorts Tomamu and then set off for Asahidake.

I started my trip in Kamui, heading south to Furano and then further south to Tomamu. This time, I went straight up north towards Asahikawa. As I neared the city of Asahikawa, I turned and headed east towards Daisetsuzan. Daisetsuzan is a volcanic mountain range stretching across central Hokkaido with Mt. Asahidake standing as the highest peak in the range. Mt. Asahidake is the tallest mountain in Hokkaido and is known amongst some skiers and snowboarders as a holy ground for backcountry trails. I knew I had to see it for myself and put all of my focus into driving but, the closer I got to the mountain the more violent the blizzard winds became.

Although my sight was frequently obstructed by the snow, I somehow managed to reach the foot of Mt. Asahidake. From a general point of view, Mt. Asahidake is a rather small ski slope with only two ropeways operating. But the view from the lift stop, accentuated by the plumes of smoke dotted along the place, was absolutely captivating. The main attraction to this ski slope was none other than the backcountry trails. In order to completely enjoy backcountry trials, you need do a little hike from the lift stop, so a guide familiar with the courses is essential.

A trip around Central Hokkaido / KAMUI

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Special Report
THE BEST POWDER SNOW PARADISE IN JAPAN

A trip around Central Hokkaido

THE NEXT FRONTIER

POWDER SNOW HEAVEN ON EARTH

Words and photography: Kazuya Baba

The belly of central Hokkaido, also known as the “powder belt”, is thus named because of the outstanding powder snow which falls in the region. Asahikawa Airport serves as the entrance to this region with the nearby town of Asahikawa being the central point of various ski areas, lending itself to its common name – Central Hokkaido.

For skiing in Hokkaido, most people tend to drift towards Niseko, however, many skiers have turned their attentions to Central Hokkaido in search of a more pure skiing experience. It is a haven for the world’s best quality powder snow which cannot be experienced elsewhere. Located in Japan’s northern most region, Hokkaido, the “powder belt’s” ideal conditions are further boosted through its inland location. This allows for dry snow to fall and accumulate, producing conditions which cannot be experienced on ski fields near the coast.

In this special feature, the editor of this publication has taken it upon himself to visit the four main ski slopes of Central Hokkaido as well as a stay in the town of Asahikawa. Though he may be a well informed and experienced skier, this report will detail his first account of skiing solo in Central Hokkaido.

KAMUI

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As the plane began to descend on Asahikawa Airport, I could already see a winter wonderland stretching out before my very eyes. I had never seen an airport surrounded by so much snow before and worried, unnecessarily, about the possibility of the plane slipping upon landing on the icy landing strip. Getting into my rental car at the airport, I entered “Kamui Ski Links” into the GPS and away I went to the closest ski resort to the airport.

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As far as the eye could see was a beautiful landscape of snow. My excitement over my first ski trip to Central Hokkaido and nervousness over my first cautious drive (in a long while) over snowy roads made for an interesting journey towards Kamui. After about an hour of driving, a road sign with “Kamui” written on it finally appeared. My destination for the day had a more local feel to it than other ski resorts. There were no hotels or inns around so as to limit would-be travellers to day trips, which meant that most of the visitors were locals of the Asahikawa area. Visitors from overseas might have also found it a little difficult to reach since it can only be accessed by car.

However, shuttle bus services from Asahikawa have started operating in an effort to increase the amount of overseas visitors to Kamui. Asahikawa is a great region to visit with various wonderful places to see. Kamui is not only the easiest place to get to for those who choose to stay in Asahikawa, but it is also one of the best ski slopes to go to in order to experience high quality snow.

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The first thing I felt when I reached Kamui was that it really was a perfect example of a local ski slope in Japan. At the same time, I was overwhelmed with the desire to tell the world about this local treasure. Inbound visitors wouldn’t normally be able to experience the simple small town atmosphere if they visited the average ski slope, because they would generally be acclimatised to receiving foreign travellers. My guide around this wonderfully local ski slope was Makoto Ogata, head teacher of the Miura Dolphins Kamui ski school. The Miura Dolphins has become a household name due to the efforts of its managing director and mountaineering pro skier, Yuichiro Miura who reached the peak of Mt. Everest for the third time in his life in 2013 at the ripe old age of 80.

Makoto mentioned to me that the Kamui ski slope is great because not too many people visit. Though the ski resort only has a total of 7 chairlifts (including the gondola), the slope itself is wide and spacious. The snow is groomed into beautiful wide ranging arcs, making skiing on the slopes a real treat. There are also many off-piste tracks open as well and various tree runs to challenge and please skiers of varying levels. Because I had arrived on a weekday, the amount of visitors was sparse, allowing me to pretty much have the whole slope to myself. It felt a little wasteful to only visit this place on a day trip. I probably would have preferred to explore Kamui on consecutive day trips whilst I stayed in the city of Asahikawa if I had the chance to. Now might be your only chance to savour the magnificent slopes all on your own before word gets out to too many foreign visitors!

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If you do happen to make the trip to Kamui, I highly recommend a visit to “NOBu” at the base of the ski slopes. Asahikawa is known in Japan as one of the best places to enjoy the Japanese soul food, ramen. “NOBu” is a very well known traditional Asahikawa ramen restaurant that has maintained the same recipe over many generations. You’d be hard pressed to find a place that serves ramen as delicious as here at a ski resort anywhere else around the world.

I left Kamui Ski Links in the evening and decided to hop into my car for a night drive to Furano.