【Food】Genuine Izakaya Experience

One Japanese word that is making an increas- ingly frequent appearance in Australia in recent years is izakaya the term for combined restau- rant and bar spaces in Japan that offer both alcohol and a range of simple food.

Where the concept of a bar or pub in Japan conjures images of western-style stores serving western-style drinks, the izakaya is all Japanese. Many offer beer, chuhai, and Japanese sake, and a wide range of food as well. Something else that sets the izakaya apart from standard restaurants is that what you drink is the star here, and not what you eat.

Here are a few tips that will help ensure maximum enjoyment and a genuine izakaya experience during your next visit, whether it’s located Down Under, or in Japan.

ENJOYING THE APPETISERS

When you enter an izakaya and order a drink, you are first served some small dishes without
even having to order.

These appetisers, called “otooshi” or “tsuki- dashi”, fill the time between your first order and the arrival of your food.

Such dishes are prepared in advance so that they can be served straight away, and are designed as a match for your first drink. While you may hold some reservation over paying for something you didn’t order at first, learning to expect and appreciate such appetisers is the first step in enjoying hospitality izakaya style.

THE RIGHT FOOD FOR THE RIGHT DRINK

Good food is the perfect partner to a good drink. While it is popular to stick with beer throughout the evening in Australian pubs, the draw of an izakaya is the food that accompa- nies and brings out the flavor of the drink.

The term “sakana”, also called “ate” or “tsumami” refers to the food enjoyed alongside alcohol. Often served in small portions like the tapas of Spanish food, such dishes allow you to enjoy a wide range of different food.

Popular items on the izakaya menu include oden, yakitori, edamame, sashimi, karaage, stews, dried foods, pickles, and eggs rolls.

A PLACE FOR EVERYONE

beer

While izakaya were often seen as a place for male businessmen up until the 1970s, izakaya catering to
more feminine tastes in food and in drinks such as chuhai and wine are increasingly common, and many stores have worked on their interior to provide a place that anyone, women-only groups and families included, can enjoy.

In the 1980s, izakaya chain stores started popping up, and they came to be known as places with a good range of low-cost food and drink, and a venue where large groups can gather informally without having to worry about a bit of boisterousness. This accessible image has made izakaya a popular place for students, businesspeople, and friends to hold simple gatherings. Those out by themselves are more than welcome, too.

IZAKAYA ETIQUETTE

Some izakaya also offer the option of smoking areas. While the number of nonsmoking stores has risen in recent years, some permit smoking. For those looking to enjoy their time without worrying about smoke, nonsmoking seats are also available.

Some izakaya have seating areas where you must take off your shoes at the door, so it is a good idea to be wearing clean socks! Finally, other locations for a good drink in Japan include snack bars, cabarets, and clubs, the last two of- fering a uniquely Japanese style where female staff members serve drinks and enjoy a chat with the clientele.

Nightlife in Shinjuku

Shinjuku

©Tony Clarke

Nightlife

in Shinjuku

METROPOLITAN

The Tokyo Metropolitan Government building has been a landmark of west Shinjuku since it was built in 1990. The building has two towers and is 243 metres tall. Both towers have free observation decks on the 45th floor where visitors can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views. On a clear day, you can see the beautiful Mt Fuji. But the highlight here is the night view. The north observation deck is open till 10:30 pm, and is a popular spot for viewing the spectacular Tokyo city lights.


kabukicho

KABUKICHO

Kabukicho is the area that never goes to sleep. The neon lights and the crowds of people are the icons of the night life here. The area covers over 3,000 entertainment facilities, including restaurants, izakaya pubs, karaoke bars, movie theatres and night clubs, making it the largest entertainment district in Japan.


golden-gai

GOLDEN GAI

Golden Gai is an area with more than 200 small bars in six narrow alleys. Most bars here are only big enough to seat five to eight customers. The area used to be a site of prostitution in the 50s. Now, it has survived as a place where you can experience a unique Japanese bar culture.


omoide-yokocho

OMOIDE YOKOCHO

Omoide Yokocho, literally “memory lane”, is a street area packed with small Japanese-style pubs. The area is not designed for tourists, so visitors can see what locals eat and drink in normal Tokyo life. It’s a good place to mingle with locals and share a glass or two in a nostalgic atmosphere.

Sake – What is Sake? –

sake

Japanese rice wine, or sake, is an alcoholic beverage brewed from fermented rice. In addition to rice, its base ingredients are koji and water, where koji is a mould grown on the rice that kick-starts the fermentation process. Rice grain is polished and left to ferment. The flavour of the sake is established by the rice and water used, and most importantly, the amount of rice grain that is polished away.

HISTORY OF SAKE

Sake has been around for over 2,000 years and was traditionally used for religious ceremonies and court festivals. In the beginning, sake production was controlled by the government, but in the 10th century production was taken over by temples and shrines.

The Meiji Restoration saw a sake boom. Many breweries
were set up by landowners who would brew sake from leftover rice crops, rather than let rice grain go to waste.

Today sake is brewed not only in Japan, but also in Asia, America, and even in Australia. The Go-Shu Australian sake brewery operated by Sun Masamune is located in Penrith.

WHERE YOU CAN BUY OR DRINK HAKKAISAN IN TOKYO

sake2

Hakkaisan is a popular global brand offering many types of both sake and the Japanese spirit, shochu. In central Tokyo you can try Hakkaisan at COREDO Muromachi 2 building located in Nihonbashi. Hakkaisan Sennenkoujiya located on the first floor, offers a full range of Hakkaisan products. For those interested, but unsure of what to expect, ask one of the friendly staff who will be happy to assist you make your drink choices.

DRINKING CULTURE

October 1st is official World Sake Day: Nihonshu no Hi, and is traditionally the start date of Japanese sake production.

Like wine, sake should be sipped and savoured, not drunk in shots. When drinking sake in a group, you will often hear the expression “Kampai!” The equivalent of “Bottoms up!” but after making the
toast, you should sip and enjoy the rest of your glass at your own pace. There is no need to down sake in one shot.

TYPES OF SAKE

The labels on sake bottles carry a lot of legally required information that will assist you in knowing what to expect of your drink. For example, the label will tell you the type of sake, its alcohol content, its ingredients (in particular, if it contains distilled alcohol), the production date, the amount in the bottle, the name and address of the brewer, and the sake’s characteristics.

Sake is split into different categories depending on the rice polishing ratio, or how much grain remains after polishing. Sake is brewed from the starch inside the rice grain. Less polished rice with more grain remaining results in a full-bodied and richer sake. The more polished the rice, the cleaner and crisper the taste.

Occasionally brewers may add distilled alcohol into a sake brew to adjust the taste. Sake made with pure rice and not containing distilled alcohol is differentiated by the prefix, junmai, meaning pure rice.
There are three main types of aroma and flavour.

Ginjo – indicates a rice polishing ratio of 60 per cent. Ginjo sake is pure, refreshing and rich, yet light bodied. It includes dai-ginjo, in which the rice is most polished, to less than 50 per cent remaining grain. Dai-ginjo is the most expensive sake, as it takes approximately 40 hours to polish rice to less than 50 per cent of its volume.
Ginjo sake that does not contain distilled alcohol is known as junmai ginjo-shu, or junmai dai-ginjo-shu, depending on the rice polishing ratio. Ginjo is best served cold.

Honjozo – indicates a rice polishing ratio of 70 per cent. It takes some ten hours for rice to be polished to this level. Tokubetsu honjozo is in the same flavour profile, but has a rice polishing ratio of 60 per cent. Both types of honjozo have small amounts of distilled alcohol added, resulting in a cleaner, more fragrant and drier sake. Honjozo may be served hot or cold.

Junmai – has an unspecified rice polishing ratio and no distilled alcohol added. Junmai is rich, savoury, and full bodied, with a subtle aroma. It is not as polished as ginjo sake, and generally has a rice- like flavour. Junmai is best served at room temperature, or warm, to bring out the most flavour.

SAKE METER VALUE (SMV)

SMV is used to indicate the sweetness or dryness of sake. It is a measure of the density of sake
relative to water. A negative SMV indicates a sweeter sake, while a positive value defines a dry sake, and is affected by the sugar content, or level of acidity. SMV is indicative of sake flavour and an average SMV is +3.

HOW SAKE IS PREPARED AND SERVED

Sake is served neat at either room temperature, chilled, or warmed. Temperature is dependent on the type of sake being drunk. The label on the bottle may include a suggested serving temperature. Sake should be warmed in a bath of hot water and not over an open flame. The best approach is to use a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

Some sake has sediment. Sake with sediments should not be shaken. Move the bottle gently from side to side to mix the liquid before serving.

Most restaurants will serve sake in a small, bowl-shaped cup called a choko, poured from a flask called a tokkuri. A tokkuri is good for serving warm sake, as the narrow neck prevents heat from escaping, but a tokkuri can also be used to serve sake cold . A slightly larger cup is known as a guinomi and is used to serve both warm and cold sake.

Cold sake is sometimes served in a tall shot glass placed in a wooden box called a masu. The sake overflowing from the shot glass into the masu represents wealth and abundance. Start by drinking the sake from the shot glass, then either pour the remaining sake from the masu into the shot glass, or drink from a corner of the masu itself. If the shot glass comes in contact with a surface outside the masu, do not return the glass into the sake-filled masu, to avoid contamination.

POPULAR BRANDS

There are quite a few sake breweries in the market. The more popular ones are Hakkaisan and Dassai. Each are brewed in different parts of Japan and are available in Australia at various izakaya Japanese pubs.

WHERE TO TASTE SAKE


sake-bottles

In Australia there are plenty of places to enjoy sake with Japanese food. Head to your local izakaya and order away! Some izakaya have push carts on which sake is brought to your table. The restaurant staff may offer you a taste before you order. Take the opportunity to chat with the staff about your preferred flavour profile and ask for suggestions.
If you would like to buy some sake in Sydney, Tokyo Mart located in Northbridge Plaza is a 15-minute drive from the city. Tokyo Mart has an extensive range of sake and other Japanese beverages.


Tokyo-mart